Mari Lwyds, Mayhem and Moonshine – Dark Gathering 2023 – Part Two

 

This year we were determined to have a Parade since our last year in Boscastle we were unable to have one.  In the past we had a parade in order to escort the Mari Lwyds to the Gathering, this year was going to be different.  The Welsh requested that they arrive without escort and revert to a more traditional approach which resembled a form of gate-crashing.  We still wanted a Parade for the local people of Tintagel and for any visitors who hadn’t managed to purchase a ticket.  Also, as I mentioned earlier we wanted to expand the Cornish/Welsh cultural exchange, so with this idea in mind I searched for and found what I felt to be some excellent representatives of the Cornish tradition.  First of all I approached the Raffidy Dumitz Band from Penzance, which incidentally myself and Laetitia had recently joined as musicians.  ‘Raffidy Dumitz’ – formed in 2014 – is a group of musicians based in the Penzance area, who gather to perform predominantly Cornish music at Cornish cultural events. ‘Dumitz’ means noise and celebration other versions say it means twilight. ‘Raffidy’ refers to a 19th century story about a mediaeval statue of St Raphael, possibly part of an ancient chapel, now in St Mary’s churchyard: a workman said he had ‘wheeled away St Raffidy in a barrow’.

As we had now changed our venue, the words of our Pwnco with the Welsh needed to be changed to fit the new situation.  Caroline Yeates, the author of these verses, kindly created a new set of lyrics.

However, we then had to find a Cornish speaker who could translate the words from English to Cornish.  Very sadly, our dear friend Craig Weatherhill who had helped us out in the past had passed away, and so I was on the hunt for someone else.  Rather delightfully we eventually discovered a Cornish Bard who not only was willing to translate the lyrics, but also to transpose them with the appropriate timing and metre.  We had stumbled upon a real gem of a performer in Ken George as he agreed to sing the Pwnco for us on the day.  It wasn’t until later on that I realised how highly qualified Ken is – check out this link for more details: Ken George Biography

In order to truly celebrate the cross cultural exchange, we agreed to have both Welsh and Cornish dancing displays, with a bit of audience participation to add to the fun.

Now that I have explained the thinking behind the Parade, it’s time to let you know what it was like on the day.  Since the Parade required a rolling road closure, we paid for a local Tintagel resident, Roger Lyle, to attend a day course entitled the Traffic Management for an Event.  Roger successfully completed this and got his accreditation which will now last for the next five years.  So, as in the nature of these things, we had to be exact in our timing for the Parade start – no room for the Cornish ‘dreckly’ syndrome!  (For those who are not familiar with this term, ‘dreckly’ means, at some point in the future – a bit like ‘man yana’ but not as quick.)

What was supposed to happen was, the Raffidy Dumitz Band was to leave at 6 pm on the dot from the Castle car park.  At the same time Penkevyll was going to leave the venue and process down the street until they met each other outside the King Arthur’s Arms for an Oss Off.  (Where two or more Osses meet is called an Oss Off).  However, on the day Penkevyll got over excited and ran out into the street to meet and greet all the people waiting on the sides of the street, the tribal drummers which accompanied her were then obliged to follow in her wake.  Although we emerged rather early and the 10 minutes wait seemed interminable for us drummers, Penk and her foal, Morvargh lost no time in delighting the crowd and getting up to all sorts of mischief.

A quick mention here for our new apprentice Teazer, Megan who gave a great performance in her new role.

Not forgetting our new Rider who also did splendidly.  By tradition the Rider is not named in order to maintain the mystique of the Oss.

Morvargh couldn’t resist the lure of the sweet counter in the local shop.  Naughty Oss!

In the meantime, various musicians were legging it down the main street to join the Parade.

Then at last the Parade was spotted coming around the corner – the excitement was palpable!

This was our signal to process down to meet them and off we set.

It was a sight to see and no mistake.  Here’s some footage to give a feel of the atmosphere:

There was a glorious meet up with Penkevyll and Penhood who hadn’t seen each other since St Piran’s Day in Redruth, and they danced together to the combined music of the Raffidy Dumitz Band and the tribal drums that had accompanied Penkevyll.

The tune played when they met was ‘Horse’s Bransle’ a 16th Century French tune AKA ‘The Devil’s Fiddler’ or ‘Horse’s Brawl’.

The Band sounded great and there were smiles and excitement from the crowds including folk coming out of their homes and shops to watch the spectacle go by.

 

It was during this time that we had a few moments of mizzle (a cross between mist and drizzle) – it seemed that the Raffidy Dumitz Band had brought it up with them from West Cornwall!  However it was short lived and certainly didn’t dampen the spirits of all the revellers.  By the time the Parade had made it’s way up the main street and back to the venue it had stopped.

Looks like Penkevyll managed to corral Beltane Morris in a tent – not a sight you see very often!

Then the call went out – the Welsh had arrived.  The Pwnco ceremony was about to begin.

Before I recount this custom and whilst I have your attention, there is something I want to mention in dispatches.

This man is John Isaac.  He is a lovely man and a very gifted photographer.  John has been the our official photographer from the very first Dark Gathering, nearly ten years ago.  Sadly, he has been subjected to considerable harassment from certain quarters within the audience during his time with us.  I would ask for some patience and consideration as he performs his duties.  John takes a few shots at a time and then moves on – please bear with him.  I know it’s annoying for someone to get in your way, but it’s not permanent.  In case folk don’t realise who he is, we have decided that in future John will wear a trilby hat with a Press card stuck in the brim so that he will be instantly recognisable.  John does a wonderful job and we don’t want to lose him because he’s got disheartened by all the verbal abuse aimed at him during the event.  Thank you for your understanding in this.

Back to the Pwnco.  In order to remind everyone what a Pwnco ceremony is, here is an extract from a Mari Lwyd Information Leaflet that was written by Caroline Yeates:

The Mari Lwyd is an old Welsh custom dating back centuries. During “ Y Gwyliau” – “ The Holidays” around Christmas and New Year, groups of men would go from house to house and pub to pub carrying a decorated horse’s skull on a pole with a sheet hanging down which covered the bearer. They would sing and make noise and on arriving at a door ask for admittance which could only be gained by winning a rhyming competition with the inhabitants “ The Pwnco” or “Canu Cwnsela”. This competition could go on for some time and include many insults. Eventually the Mari and Party would be let in for food, drink and merriment which they would enjoy until moving on to the next house or pub and starting all over again. Money also sometimes changed hands, a bit like carol singing or the Wassail tradition. Various characters were associated with the Mari – the Ostler who led the Mari, Merryman the fiddler, the Sergeant and Punch and Judy who got up to all sorts of mischief.

When the Welsh arrive at the Dark Gathering following an afternoon of genial mayhem around the village, they follow very similar lines in their approach to gain entry.  We have scouts out to warn of the approach of the Welsh for its as well to be prepared for them. I’m sure folk would love to know exactly what insults were traded and exchanged between the Welsh and the Cornish so here is the translation:

Translation of Cornish & Welsh Pwnco 2023

Cornish – Kernewek
Welsh – Cymraeg

 (K) Well what’s all that noise there, like choughs who are choking?
We’re locking the doors now, we’re frightened.

 (C) We sing as sweetly as the birds of Rhiannon to wake the dead tonight.

 (K) Well give us your names then, you don’t look too friendly.
Just bones, teeth and tatters, and eyeballs.

 (C) Here are Arianrhod, Fflosi and Seren. We’re related to Llamrei, Arthur’s steed.

 (K) Why have you come here so late in the evening?
The spirits will walk soon. Stay out there.

 (C) We’ve come here to celebrate the spirit night of All Hallows but the M5 was terrible.

7. (K) Well come in, be quick then. It’s cold on the doorstep.
But please can you tone down, your screeching.

 (C) At last! A welcome to sing and celebrate. We hope there’s cake and beer.

Now here is what it sounds like in Welsh and Cornish.

The Pwnco Ceremony

There then followed very lively and entertaining Welsh dancing from Cwmni Gwerin Pontypwl whilst the stately progression of the Mari Lwyds continued around the edge of the performance area.

Magically, just as the Welsh performers were singing their Farewell Song to us all, the full moon in all her glory slipped out from behind her veil of clouds to shine her mysterious light upon the proceedings.

Then, it was time for the Cornish to perform with music and dance.

I tried to find some photos of the Cornish dancing but everyone was dancing so quickly that the dancers came out as a blur!  Nevertheless we all had a great time enjoying the Nos Lowen.  (Cornish for Happy Night or social dancing to traditional Cornish tunes)

It was time for a change of pace following all this frivolity.  It was time to call forth the spirits.  It was time for the Ancestors.

Tarry ye awhile – I will return, dreckly…

 

 

 

 

11 thoughts on “Mari Lwyds, Mayhem and Moonshine – Dark Gathering 2023 – Part Two

  1. I am gutted that John Isaacs has been subjected to such bad behaviour. John you are always welcome in front of The Witch on Wheels, you have always been considerate of me as a wheelchair user. Cassandra another lovely summary of a great time. Lots of love Sassie

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  2. Another lovely write up! Thank you for all the background detail. I love all the care and symbolism in there! The attention to the songs, translation work and logistics of the parade, oh boy! Oh, I loved that line in the pwnco: “ We’ve come here to celebrate the spirit night of All Hallows but the M5 was terrible.” Wonderful! My heroes!

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  3. Penkevyll’s excitement gave us the opportunity to meet her and Morvargh ‘up close and personal’ – a powerful moment for many of us, I’m sure – and the melding of their drummers with the RDB was beautifully handled. Magical.

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  4. An apt title Laetitia. Golau lleuad, Gwallgo’r Gasegau is the closest I can get it in Welsh to keep the alliteration. Literally Moonlight and Mares’ Madness. Also – Roger was great. Thank you for this account Cassandra.

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